Monday we left our cozy hostel before dawn to drive an hour to Kyambura Gorge to participate in Chimpanzee tracking. We drive across golden grass savannah with African looking trees. The gorge drops down from the flat savannah to a river. The light descends through the canopy of foliage topping the very big trees. We are in luck, and watch a family group of four chimps for a good while. I am captivated, and think about Jane Goodall spending her life watching the chimps rather than returning to the tame social life in England. The mother with her two year old, was like Paige with Odin, except for being up the tree tops.